The bird, as most interested individuals know, is not a domesticated animal, like a dog or a cat. It is a creature with an extremely long ancestry; and, actually, for anyone who happens to share his or her home with a little biting individual, it's probably not all that surprising to find that bird ancestors were around during the time of the dinosaurs! Because of their origins, birds react differently than domesticated animals to many situations. There are many reasons for biting behavior, and each bird should be assessed individually to be understood completely and corrected properly. However, in a general sense, there are some commonly seem catalysts for this undesirable behavior.

One of the first things we need to remember is that hookbills are intelligent and emotional creatures, and it is important to understand their point of view. All birds are extremely responsive to changes or stresses within their environment, especially those experienced by the primary humans. For example, if an otherwise sweet and calm individual suddenly bites, the first consideration should concern the bird's comfort: is it tired, startled, frightened or in pain? Were there strangers in the environment earlier who encroached upon the bird's area of comfort? Have the people in the home been worried or emotional over personal concerns? Any of these things can cause the bird to lash out in a way that may appear unpredictable, but actually is the only defense available to the bird when it's experiencing anything it perceives to be a threat.

In situations such as this, the bird needs to first be examined to make sure that it is not ill or in pain. Secondly, recent events pertaining to the environment can be reviewed to see if the bird is upset about something that recently transpired. If no illness is found, the bird can be removed to a quiet area or left alone for a while. Often, just a little solitude is all that the bird needs to return to its more personable self.

Human beings, with their innate tendency to misinterpret the behavior of their animal friends, are often the primary cause of biting behavior. For example, if people insist upon poking their fingers at birds, or moving quickly around them, they will often be bitten. Why? If you have ever observed hook bill interaction, a poking gesture with the beak usually means "get away," or "I'm angry and going to pick a fight with you if you don't leave right away." The immediate response if "fight or flight" in nature; therefore, a threatening finger will usually be bitten.

Quick movements are simply reacted to astronomically. Birds are "programmed" by nature to respond in a "fight or flight" manner. This is why the natural movements of small, rowdy children are not appreciated by most birds; they feel threatened by the children and may strike without even thinking about it!

When people within a bird's environment are experiencing personal problems, the bird becomes an excellent barometer for telling exactly how well the humans are coping with the stress involved, and they will often magnify the prevailing emotional tempo. This is because birds are flock creatures, and are extremely sensitive to the feelings of others around them. After being made aware of this, people frequently find themselves making much-needed positive changes to their own behavior that they would not have made without their bird's negative reactions, and the bird usually becomes calmer, too!

Mishandling a bird can frighten it and cause it to bite. For example, many people do not think of what it must be like to stand on the slippery surface of an arm. They will gesture, or move about quickly, while the bird scrambles, like a little log roller, to keep from falling. The bird should always be able to rest its beak against the person's torso when being held on the hand or arm, and minimal rotational movement of the limb is preferred to keep the bird feeling secure and comfortable.

Sexually mature parrots may become a little rowdy for short periods of time during breeding seasons. At this time, birds will often exhibit typical display behavior, consisting of pinpointed pupils, arched necks and widely fanned tails, accompanied by cheerful-sounding vocalizations. Unfortunately, their people often find them adorable when they are doing this, and make the mistake of trying to pick up their feathered friends. Little do they realize that the bird's behavior is indicating an "altered state" and that any moving object within a relatively short distance may be severely bitten! Most birds in this condition are not even aware that they are biting the ones they love! Imagine their surprise when the usual objects of their devotion jump around screaming and becoming angry.

During breeding season, some birds will be stimulated by visual stimuli, such as another bird (especially of the same, or similar species), their own reflections, or by another person or animal in the environment. Biting due to these causes seems to be almost an unconscious response in susceptible individuals, and situations that lead to such behavior need to be avoided whenever possible. Challenging the bird at that time is completely counterproductive. The best piece of advice is th just leave a bird alone when it's displaying sexual rambunctiousness and display behavior. Everyone has "off" days. These birds are merely in the throes of their yearly "hormonal whoopies" and these periods pass relatively quickly. The little guys will usually be just fine afterward.

Some birds become "stalkers". The fully flighted "kamikaze" is probably the most alarming stalker of all. This can range from the youngster that happens to be "feeling his oats" to the older, sexually mature individual that has taken over the greater part of the house, including airspace, in an attempt to defend what the bird perceives to be its own territory and hatching site for a future squadron.

Usually, these particular hookbills are forced to bite because the people have the audacity to wander around in what the bird perceives to be its own domain. If accosted unawares by such an individual, the duck-and-cover technique works nicely, accompanied by shrieking if desired. Arm flailing is discouraged, even if it is unintentional, as it may harm the bird physically. Assorted weaponry, such as tennis rackets or fly swatters, is strictly forbidden, as well!

A key ingredient in stopping this kamikaze behavior would be to clip the little pilot's wing feathers, rendering it a pedestrian like the rest of the household. Some pouting may be seen immediately after clipping; however, if the bird is taught to play on a playgym or hanging perch in a room where the family spends most of their time, it will usually adjust quite well to its loss of rank. In fact, being flock creatures, they are usually much happier once they realize that they don't need to defend a complete house anymore. Clipped kamikaze pilots will behave like retired tycoons that can finally lay sprawled on the beach sipping pina coladas all day.

On a more serious note regarding free-flight: Notwithstanding aggression, many things in a normal home can be dangerous to birds, and the fact is that most of us are not able to supervise them constantly. Also, a bird that is given clear boundaries will be a happy individual whether or not it happens to be fully flighted. Clipped birds can still exercise by flapping their wings while hanging on to their perches or their human's hands.

Interestingly, some hand-fed, domestically bred birds do not seem to want to fly, even when given the opportunity. If they can fly, these individuals will at most make very short flights here or there to join their human companions. Some bird breeders, by the way, have wonderful environments where their babies can fly and develop their chest muscles without possibility of injury. This is a different situation entirely, and usually quite unlike a typical, single-bird household.

Stalkers are not always airborne, however. There is also the issue of the pedestrian stalker. This is usually a bird that has claimed most floorspace and furniture in the home as its own. As with the kamikaze, the pedestrian stalker is duty-bound to defend its territory against interlopers, even if they are the ones who happen to be paying the bills. Humans sharing their home with one of these birds are usually conspicuous by their tendency toward wearing closed-toe shoes and long pants, even in hot weather. They also gingerly avoid furniture and objects claimed by the bird!

Stalkers can be placed in their cages and ignored for 10 minutes or so, before being released to a perch or playgym. With a persistent individual, whenever they are out of the cage it may be necessary to place them on a playgym that is impossible for them to climb down from. Sometimes, this is all that is required in order to stop negative behavior in these little guys.

What about biting baby parrots? Some people save for months to be able to afford their dream companion. Unfortunately, the object of desire will sometimes suddenly latch onto the "dreamer", shocking him or her into a hurt and angry reality.

Like all babies, baby birds have a "beaking" stage, similar to that of a teething child. A large assortment of toys should be provided, especially toys that some sort of "give" to them. This time is an important part of the babies' development and it enables them to test their jaw strength.

Also, it is not a good idea for parrots to grow up believing that faces, hands and fingers are teething devices. They can touch fingers, hands and faces with their beaks, and even hold parts of them gently, but clamping down needs to be discouraged immediately. Remember that they are babies and do it gently, either by stopping play activities for a minute or two, while looking away, or by offering other, more acceptable toys for them to hold or chew.

Never strike a baby bird, even with one finger, or grab the beak and shake it. This will only serve in making the bird hand-shy and can lead to striking and biting behavior when the bird becomes older. Every once in a while, an assertive youngster will latch onto people because it is getting an early start in the dominance game and wants to see its person's knees buckle in submission. Gently but firmly remove the beak while saying "No" in a firm voice, and give them "the evil eye". Don't scold or yell.

The exception is any baby parrot that is very clumsy. Often, they are trying to tell us that we are not holding them correctly and that they do not feel secure. The only way that these birds can convey their discomfort is to nip us. In that situation, the bird should not be corrected, but the person should alter the way he or she handles it. Babies should be held properly, on the hand or wrist, with their beak or chest resting against the person's torso to provide stability.

If a baby bird is biting, it may be tired. If it is, just like any other tired baby, it will be grumpy. Ask yourself: Is it frightened, uncomfortable, clumsy or hungry? Bird use their beaks to express themselves. People have to be smart enough to understand what their feathered "kids" are trying to tell them.

It's important to mention some general principles conducive to good behavior. The most important thing to remember is the fact that hookbills that perch in high places (including shoulders) are being "told" by their people that they (the birds) are the dominant individuals in the relationship and can do as they wish. If a bid is naturally good natured, then the height issue will not be as important; however, most individuals will attempt to assert some form of control - especially by biting - when they're permitted to stay in high places. Keeping the top of a bird's head at your chest level is very helpful in maintaining control and discouraging biting behavior.

A second consideration is relative to respecting the bird's feelings and natural genetic programming, as well as our responsibility to them. For example, if the bird is grumpy, it may be having a bad day or may not be feeling well; maybe it's hormones are rampaging and it feels out of sorts. Sometimes grumpy behavior surfaces if the people in the home have not been around as much or have not been as interactive as usual. It is unrealistic to expect anyone to be "on" constantly, especially if they have to live with humans!

For birds that do not typically bite, examine the environment and see if you have done anything to upset them Respect their right to have an "off" day. Talk to them and feed them, but don't handle them excessively when they don't feel like interacting with you. Usually, they will be back to their normal selves in a day or two.

Finally, confrontation is never necessary for correcting biting behavior. For random biting, the "earthquake" method works quite well; however, in many cases, isolating the bird in its cage (or another room) for short periods of time is just as effective. Above all, let your bird know that you love it very much. Remember, it is your friend. Give it the same respect and understanding that you would extend to any other individual that you care for. Often, this is all that is needed! Above all, as always, love the bird for what it is, not for what you want it to be.